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Tuesday, December 28, 2004
Of course someday I will be flooded with ideas for all of the stuff that I forget, but for now, I will return to a continuing story. You can refer back to the entry I wrote about the transportation system here in Kazakhstan. Anyone who has lived outside of a completely developed country will probably be able to sympathize with this anxiety.
The weekend that I spent away from site, visiting the other volunteers, was, shall we say, interesting for other reasons other from meeting other people and seeing how their lives are different. It has been winter here for a few weeks now, maybe a few months. It is hard to keep track of time outside of the coming of major events. Anyway, it's winter here. In most areas of Uralsk, those outside of Uralsk don't plow the roads when it snows, not to any standard close to that in the States, on a bad day. I'll just say there is usually one track going down the middle of the roads where the traffic has worn the snow and ice back down to the road.
I know the drivers of vehicles have been here doing this for a few more years that I have, but sometimes experience isn't always enough to make a person throw caution to the wind. And certainly this is not the case on ice and snow covered roads. Very rarely has any driver slowed down to let another car going the other way pass. The occasional driver that does, does so only because he is swerving to keep the said vehicle on the road, and the reduction of speed is very, very little. Usually what happens is each of the drivers' shares the middle of the road with their driver's side tire and puts the passenger tire in the snow and ice. This makes it really fun to be sitting in the back praying for dear life.
The reason I thought of adding this story to the blog was the taxi ride back from visiting the other volunteer's was one of those rides. The roads between Uralsk and Chapiva are under construction for the most part. Most of the roads are actually side roads made by other drivers who don't want to take the main road for whatever reason. The road between the town where we were at and Uralsk should have taken us about four hours to get back, partially because of road conditions and partially because of the distance needed to travel. This particular day, with snow and ice on the roads and sometimes snow falling hard enough to bring vision to about a quarter mile, the trip should have taken a normal (safe) driver a little closer to five hours. We made it in three hours.
Most of the trip, the side roads, we were doing between 70 and 90 kph. When we hit the main road, which is paved with pavement, snow and ice, our driver cranked it up to 120 - 130 kph. There isn't much one can do while sitting in the back seat, without an "oh-shit" handle, or a seatbelt. So Amber, the other volunteer, and I just kind of sat there and tried to sleep and look anywhere besides out the windshield.
Now, I could say this experience is a one-time thing, ha ha, but that would make me a liar. Driving in the cities, where there are a lot more vehicles, doesn't change. Often you see cars screaming up to the stoplights / signs with all four locked tight. The speed of the public transportation doesn't change, regardless of the road conditions.
I'll tell you what, I left with a few gray hairs, but at the rate things go here, I am going to be all white by the time I get back. I hope you all enjoy yourselves where drivers are as insane as they are here, but at least know to slow down when weather gets bad.
Take care out there.
Posted at 12/28/2004 7:19:53 pm by TimsPCjournal
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Saturday, December 25, 2004
So here I am...far away from home on a major holiday. I hope everyone out there is doing well. I have received a few emails of well wishes and I want to send those wishes out to each of you who are reading my weblog. Most of you I know, but there are some that I have never met before. I am glad that you are out there following me on this interesting journey through another country and another culture.
My life here has been constantly changing and I know there will be many more to come. I have been learning one langauage with fairly good results (Kazakh) and I will soon begin being tutored in Russian. There are so many things that I want to share with everyone there in the States, and time allowing, maybe, some day I will get the chance to share this experience on a little broader scale. For now, I will just throw some ideas that I have learned here in the past few months.
1) You can never have enough patience. I had always considered myself a fairly patient person, and over the years I had learned that I needed more, but I never seemed to grasp how impatient I was until I came here. I know, from experience now, that Americans are considered impatient, always running here and doing that, like the world is going to stop if things don't happen right now. That's not the case, and as I have discovered here, being on time is less important than the rest of life. Things here move much slower. The concept of a schedule is here, but is hardly ever followed, sometimes even in school. Occasionally, I sit back and wonder about what it will be like readjusting to life in America. We are warned from the beginning that culture adjustment is hard, but going back to the states can be just as hard, if not harder. Anyway, next idea.
2) I can eat anything in the world, drinking is another story, ok maybe not eat AnYthIng, but a lot. I never realized how different the food is in America, and how limited our scope of what is acceptable to eat has been. I have eaten horse, and sheep, and crow (I think), and many other things that I am not sure about. All of the meals, save the crow, have included many of the body parts that are thrown out in America. I have yet to get sick, and overall, most of it is as good, many times better, than the food in the States. I know it isn't spices that make it good. If anything, that is one concept this country needs introduced to. The flavor is always good, overall.
3) Saying hello is overrated. I have never said hello more times in a week in the states as I do in a day here. And handshaking also. Everyone wants to shake my hand. Sometimes, it would be nice to melt into the background, but here, I am always on display. I guess I can't help it. I have been mistaken for a German once, a Czech, and just today in the Bazaar a Tater. The latter was the biggest shock to me, because I look absolutely nothing like a tatar, but I took it for what it was worth, and went on smiling.
There is more that I could add, but the time and money won't allow me to go on.
I miss all of my friends and family, and I wish you all the best of life, love, and happiness.
Always remember that no matter what the adds show on TV, money won't get you any of those. Some of the poorest people in this country are some of the happiest. Sometimes it makes life a little more difficult, but it is well worth the happiness to be poor and have a hard life.
Take care out there.
Merry Christmas and a Happy New 2005
Posted at 12/25/2004 12:45:31 pm by TimsPCjournal
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Friday, December 24, 2004
I am sure with my last few entires that there is at least one person out there wondering what is happening with me over here in this country. I reckon I ought to pony up some information and let you know what is going on.
As you have probably figured out, there have been some rough times here in Kazakhstan. Some of them I have written about, some of them I have not. The roughest times for the most part have been the result of my choice of a host family. If only we could meet the people that we are required to work with prior to choosing and living with them...
As our volunteer, our choices of host fmailies are made from looking at a few sheets of information, and taking the word of our regional managers about the families that have been "prepared" for us. The regional managers, by their own admission, may meet twice wih the prospective family in order to check them out and see that they are indeed capable of meeting with the requirements of Peace Corps. I know from my experience, and the stories of other volunteers that this is not good enough to sort out the truth about the family. But, nothing is perfect, so you work with what you know and go from there, which is what I did in choosing the host family.
That being said, here is the rest of the story of my move from one family to another. After the intervention evening, I made the call to my regional manager and informed her that I was moving, and movnig quickly. She gave me the go ahead and so I began on my quest to pack up the stuff I came with and the stuff I have bought since being here. I stayed up most of the night, as I hyad already made plans to be gone for the next few days. I had almost eveything packed, and merely had to throw my clothes and a few other items into my suitcases when I returned from my trip. The reason that I had not done this yet was the suitcases were being kept in the living room of the host family where there was more room than my closet bedroom. (I never did tell the size of the roomt hat I was living in, did I? It was small. Leave it at that.)
I went on my trip, and upon returning four days later discovered that the 21 year old boy next door had been killed in a logging accident. There were a lot of people at the house next door and the Host father was standing there when I walked up. He explained what had happend as he walked me to the front door of the house. I hadn't met the boy, but I know what missing family members can do to families here in Kazakhstan. They usually leave a big hole where they had provided money and assistance to the family.
After making it into the house, I had some lunch, which ironically was the first good meal that I had had in the house in about three months. Then I grabbed my suitcases and went into my room and finished packing. My counterpart had misunderstood me as to when I would be coming back from the weekend, and was unreachable. This is also ironic because I didn't want them to know that I was going until I had someone who could explain it better than I could in Kazakh and better than Aibar could understand in English. As it turns out, the host Baktigul, Host mom, figured it out when she "happend" to look in the cupboard where my suitcases had been and they were gone. Funny thing is that the only thing that was in the cupboard were my suitcases and she had no reason to be looking in there. So, anyway, she confronted me and me without a way to explain the situation did the best that I could, and finally gave up on explaining and trying to call my counterpart (who was out visiting with other people) and called my Regional Manager, who explained the situation.
Baktigul, after hearing this, stole my cat. MY CAT!.. the cat they had given to me, that I didn't need, or at the time want, but had been the sole caretaker of since his arrival at the house. I had came to like the cat. Well, as it turns out, they hadn't "given" me the cat. It was theirs. Apparently, in a really crappy explanation, it is the "tradition" of the Kazakh people that when a cat is brought into the house, it stays in the house, if the people move. This was the biggest lie I had heard them tell since I had arrived, and the story changed four different times while I was moving out. Needless to say, they still have the cat, and when I saw him last night, he has lost weight, which happens when cats are fed a diet of scarce table scraps and bread.
Anyway, I gave up on the cat. Maybe I'll find another one, or get rid of the food and litter that I have left over. Anyway, this is not the end of the story.
As it turns out, I had made a host family payment of 13,000 tenge this month on the fourth. I had been pressured to make it earlier, because, the story was at the time, the host father needed to get the car serviced. Ummm. No you can't have my host family payment to service the car. Later, it came back to me that the money wasn't needed anymore. What they had told me was that Baktigul hadn't been paid in two months, and neither had the host father.
At this time I had my suspicions that my money wasn't being spent on food or electricity. About once a week the host mom would show off another piece of new kewelry that she had gotten, with the money she and he weren't getting from work. Anyway, back on track, Aibar comes to me yesterday and tells me that it is my duty to pay the phone bill. At this point, they still had 5300 tenge of my payment that had not been spent on food for me, nor electricity. This was the amount averaged out from the days that I had not been, and will not be, living there. They wanted me tyo pay a 1400 tenge phone bill when they in truth owed me 5300 tenge, and they had my cat, which I had taken to the vet and had bought food, medication, and litter for, for four months...And they wanted me to give them more money...Needless to say, I didn't back down to him.
As it turns out, he let it slip that the money they had asked me for at the beginning of the month went to buy Norblat (host father) winter boots, when he already had them. What happend was I refused to give them the money, he got a loan from work, and when I made my payment, he paid back the loan. Which means that he had a pair of 13,000 tenge boots with my food and electricity payment. And, they wanted me to give them more money? I don't think so.
I talked to my counterpart and we made plans to go and talk to them. As it turns out, my director had gotten wind of the story about the cat, and had laid into Baktigul, and had "abused her with words." I would have felt better if she had just bee straight up abused. Anyway, I have a new host family, and a much better place to stay. But that is for another entry. My address is still the same as it was before, as I had not put the house address when I posted the address. The phone number is different though. If anyone wants to call me on Christmas, I will be in Uralsk at Terry's apartment. The phone number there is 3112 50-37-12,. You can get the country code from the operater. I think it is 7, but I am not sure right now. I have to go take a Kazakh lesson with my new tutor.
Take care out there, guard yourself and your cat. You never know when the Indian Giver will come out in people.
Posted at 12/24/2004 6:27:58 pm by TimsPCjournal
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Thursday, December 23, 2004
Recipe for hatred...explanation later (Indian Givers)
1) Allow someone into your house and let them pay you to stay.
2) Treat them like crap.
3) Spend the money they pay for food on jewelry for your wife, and boots for you.
4) Beat their pets that you gave to them.
5) Scare off all of their potential friends.
6) Tell him that he must tutor your children who don't want to learn the language.
7) Feed them crap food, like crow and potatoes, over and over and over and over.
8) When he gets sick of putting up with your crap, try to make him stay.
9) When he leaves, keep his pet that your family hates and he likes.
10) Make him pay a 1000 tenge phone bill, when in reality, you owe him 5277 tenge.
11) Try to make him feel bad that your wife is crying.
12) After all of this, invite him to come and visit.
The Fing audacity of this family!
I'm glad it is over and I'm not going back. EVER! YEAH!!!!
Hope you are all doing good out there....ps if anyone has a kitten that needs a home....
Posted at 12/23/2004 7:55:10 pm by TimsPCjournal
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Tuesday, December 21, 2004
Christmas, Yes I know it will be late, Wish List
A Peace Corps Kazakhstan Volunteer's Christmas Wish List…for those interested.
Some of you have expressed interest in sending stuff to me. Here is a list of things that I could use, and that I want. Some of it is a joke, you'll figure it out, but most of it is serious. I will be happy, ecstatic, to reccieve anything on the list, and most of it can be done at minimal cost. Most of it is stuff for class and stuff I will leave here for others to use.
Thank you all for even reading this list.
Take care out there.
Things I could use a lot of:
-Scented candles
-hand sanitizer
-ruled lined paper (Elementary, regular, college Ruled)
-writing stationary
-schoolroom chalk (the round kind)
-Tazo Tea (Of any type, but spiced orange and Chocolate Chai, if you can find it, would rock my world)
-Eucalyptus tea
-Any newspapers, magazines, books, dictionaries, thesauri, reading material of any kind as long as it is English (I want stuff that I can leave here for the teachers at my school to use for resources and material)
-pictures of people, places, and items of interest from around America
-any snack food from the States is also welcome in any amount (especially Hershey's Special Dark Chocolate)
-pancake syrup
-American Style playing cards
-anything you think someone far away from home would like to have, or could use.
Things necessary for living here and cooking:
-Measuring cups, bread knife (but I don't know how well that would travel)
-semi-sweet Chocolate chip morsels for cookies
-recipes for different American Style foods
Things that would be nice to have for classes and to leave behind:
-Classroom version of a game called word-up http://www.teflgames.com/about.html
-Any version of Scrabble
-Art supplies of any size, type, quality, quantity, variety, etc.
-Easy books, 3-8 grade reading level, in sets of 4-10
-Again, any magazines, newspapers, books, pictures, maps, guides to state / National Parks, Atlases, brochures from colleges, universities, schools, letters vaguely addressed to anybody, anything.
Things I am selfish for:
The following books:
-http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/1904563295/qid=1103032891/sr=1-1/ref=sr_1_1/102-2133278-0800109?v=glance&s=books
-http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1570717206/ref=pd_sxp_elt_l1/102-2133278-0800109
-http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0714844098/qid=1103119419/sr=2-1/ref=pd_ka_b_2_1/102-2133278-0800109
-http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/1932112154/qid=1103119800/sr=2-1/ref=pd_ka_b_2_1/102-2133278-0800109
-Hershey's Special Dark Chocolate, true coffee (e.g. not instant)
-music
-MP3 CD's with Jazz, Classical, Blues, Country, Bluegrass, Classical Rock, Modern Rock, Rap, Pop (in small quantities), and any other type of music someone can get hold of.
If you are feeling your generous oats:
-A laptop with a CD/CDRW burner DVD player
-Olympus digital camera (http://www.olympusamerica.com/cpg_section/cpg_product_blue.asp?l=1&p=&bc=&product=1140 ),
-a trip around the world for four
-just a letter (for those of you who I owe a letter, I am getting there, really I am)
-T1 Internet lines in Kazakhstan
-an IPOD loaded with music of all sorts and kinds
-a phone call (if you want, I can give you my number)
-any video tapes of movies, news, sports, TV shows, etc, as long as they are VHS / PAL compliant (DVD Players are hard to come by, unless someone wants to refer to the first on this list ;) )
-books by the boatload (books that aren't in "good shape" in America are better than any they have here, which is none, and if someone would arrange a book drive / fund raiser for sending said books, oh wow would these people here be ecstatic)
Posted at 12/21/2004 7:59:15 pm by TimsPCjournal
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Moving on Up; Next Episode: Indian Givers
Well it finally happened that I had enough stress with my host family to take matters into my own hands, sort of.
The stress of living with the first host family that I chose finally got the best of me. The fin al straw happened on Wednesday evening. To start the story off, I will refer you all back to the earlier episode where I watched my older host brother pick up the younger one by his throat. This episode I wrote about in one of the earlier blogs, and I will make you go through the trouble of finding it, if you haven't read it, or if you don't remember.
The evening started out well, for the most part. I was gearing up for a four-day weekend that we had from teaching, as a result of the Kazakhstan Independence Day. I was planning on making a short travelling trip to meet some of the other volunteers in their site and hang out with them for a while. I was getting ready to make a phone call when they informed me, several days after the fact that I had phone calls from previous days that they forgot about…Mistakes happen I know, but sometimes, it can get old.
In the middle of me trying to get the damn phone to work, a fight began between the two boys. To back up a little bit, the host father had been gone for a few days on a trip for work back to the village they used to live in and the boys had been at each other and on my nerves since he had left. They refused to listen or obey to the host mom and had even gone so far as yelling at her when she requested them to do something. Not a fun time, let me tell you.
The fight almost got out of hand once and then they backed off of each other. I had to step into the middle of it politely as I could under the circumstances to actually put an end to it. I was trying to take the host brother into another room and explain to him that what he was doing was not going to be accepted by me, regardless if the host mom refused to get into the middle of it. This kind of backfired when the host mom decided that it was appropriate to get into he middle of it when I was trying to stop it. So I let it go.
But they didn't let their fight go. It was calm for about ten minutes, which oddly enough was enough time for me to make the overdue phone calls. I managed to get two of them done before the phone stopped working…again…and then the fight started back up. This time it was verbal for a few minutes. Then it quickly escalated when the older brother threw a hardbound book at the younger, hitting him with the corner of the book in the leg. The book was about chess, as he has been studying, trying to beat me. It wasn't a light book, and the corners of new, hardbound books are not soft. This was enough to light off the temper of the little one, who can't weigh more than 50 or 60 lbs. He started off a string of words that I know were bad, and this turned up the heat a little more. The older host brother, weighing in at about 140 or so, picked the younger up, by his throat, again, and this time punched him in the back of the head with a closed fist.
This was too much for me, and I wasn't going to take it anymore. I made my way from one corner of the room where I was trying to make the phone work to the other where the fight was happening, and put an end to it. I guess that is putting it lightly. I grabbed the arm of the older one as he swung again. He turned his attention to me, as did the host mom finally. (She still had yet to do anything about the fight!) He tried to swing at me and I laid him backwards over my knee, without hurting him, at which point, he made a grab at my face and I laid him on the floor, as gently as one can in this kind of situation.
He tried to swing a fist at me, and I responded by putting my forearm tight against his throat. This still didn't stop him and he tried to grab my face with his free hand. (I still had his first fist firmly in my grasp.) I put more pressure on my arm and stopped, realizing that he wasn't going to end up in good shape if he tried to hurt me. He finally backed off and started crying, for good reason. I had just humiliated him ion front of his mother, who couldn't stop me from what I was doing, and his little brother, who was still lying on the floor crying from being punched in the back of the head.
This was the point that I had let the situation go longer than I should have. I know that losing control of one's temper is never good, and I realized after the fact that it was the amount of stress that I was under with them that pushed me far enough to do what I had done. I immediately put in calls to my counterpart (well when I could get the damn phone to work), and to my manager (who I wasn't able to get her cell phone, but she called back later), explaining the situation. I had, ironically, just gone to visit with another potential host family earlier that evening and was calling my regional manager with a plan to move out. This incident only accelerated the move.
So now I am in a new host family, much better situation, which I will write about soon. I also have some details about the move out and my cat, which I am still trying to get back from the host family. But that is another entry.
Take care out there, and remember, if you are stressed in your situation, don't wait too late to get out. In this situation, Bad things happen to those who wait, I don't care what the saying says.
Love to all,
Ps…Stan is for Kazakhstan, (it is used by some of us to refer people to the area of the world we are in over here…e.g. the former USSR, or as they say here CCCP, which is Cyrillic for SSSR.)
Posted at 12/21/2004 7:50:54 pm by TimsPCjournal
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Monday, December 13, 2004
Basketball in Kazakhstan, Akzhaik
I know there are other things that I should write about but I figured that I should revisit some of my recent excursions in the good, ol' village of Akzhaik.
Most recently I had the opportunity, or I should say the experience of watching a basketball tournament here at the school. Now the idea of a tournament hasn't quite been realized here, nor have the rules of basketball.
The best that I can do to explain this experience to you out there in the reading public, without having a video camera or having you here is to write so here comes my best shot.
Basketball in America is a clean non-contact sport with many rules about fouling, travelling, over the back, rebounding, double dribble, over and back, and the list could go on, but I will stop. The idea of the rules is to make the game fair and consistent so that the best team of players wins the contest. I have watched my fair share of basketball over my 23 years of life, and, although I wouldn't call myself an expert, I would go as far as to say that I know how the game is supposed to go and stop. And, I can call an occasional foul with a certain degree of fairness and truth. That being said…
Basketball in Kazakhstan, well I should say Akzhaik only because I have never seen anyone else play basketball here is a clean, non-contact sport… in the way that a combination gang street fight, rugby, Aussie Rules football, Street Ball "No Blood, No Foul"" is a clean non-contact sport. They asked me to referee the game when I first got there, and I politely declined, for whatever reasons, but it soon became clear that I had made the right choice.
I have never in my life seen so many rules let slide. There is no such thing as traveling. Pushing off is a way of life. Double dribble happens only when the referee feels like blowing the whistle and making the sign. And a foul? A foul simply does not exist. I have seen boxing matches with less fist to body contact. I have seen episodes of that horrible "Walker Texas Ranger" and watched Steven Segal movies where fewer bodies hit the ground.
You may think I am exaggerating, and think what you may, you are allowed that, but if you don't believe me 1) send a video camera and videotape, 2) come and see for yourself, or 3) take me at my word. I only wish I had a video camera to show this display of, for lack of a better word, violence. I took some pictures, but I know they will not do justice to the sort of "play" that happened on the court.
On top of the sport itself, you have the fans, the court, and the rim/backboard. The fans sit on the court, and sometimes are active in the pushing of players and returning / keeping the ball in play. The court is literally half the size of a basketball court. The backboard is a piece of 1/2 inch plywood bolted to a metal frame bolted to a concrete wall, the rim is probably the best piece of equipment in the entire room. The floor is composed of, well, it's a Kazakhstan rural primary / secondary school floor, which doesn't tell you much. It is falling apart. Some place the floor is level, other places it sinks when you walk on it, and still other places it is permanently sunk. This I have pictures of.
I have played on some weird, wild, and wooly courts before, with crazy rules and dangerous floors, but nothing…NOTHING…compares to this. You all will just have to take my word for it though.
On the plus side…They do enjoy watching it.
Take care out there FOUL!!! TRAVEL!!! FOUL FOUL FOUL FOUL!!!!
Missing you all and the motorcycles. Say hello to 'em for me, Dad.
Posted at 12/13/2004 8:05:48 pm by TimsPCjournal
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Thursday, December 09, 2004
First time to speak Kazakh
This is a story that I was reminded of, not that long ago, by one of the other volunteers in the group that I am in. For those who read this story and know me, and my stubbornness, some of this will, I am sure, come as a shock.
This happened in the first three days that we were in country. At this point, I had all of maybe four hours of language training, and could just barely…no…I take that back. I couldn't even say, "Hello. My name is Tim." Anyone who has tried to learn this language and knows me will understand this. But I was game for an adventure, and set off to buy some honey.
We were staying at what is called a sanatorium, which is a little bit like a spa center type place, without all the frills. We were up in the mountains not far from Almaty. When we arrived in country, it was dark. The stars were amazingly bright, but there was absolutely no moon. So no one really knew where we were at, and at the time on the bus, tired, jet lagged, hungry, and feeling like dirty garbage after a day or thirty of flying…(I don't know how long the flight was, I lost all track of time.)…(And that feeling of dirty garbage is pretty much a weekly thing now.)…No one really knew where we were. You would think this would have been enough of an adventure for me, but no, I wanted honey, and come hell or high water, I was going to get some, language barrier or not.
At the bottom of one of the mountains was a place where there was supposed to be really good, really cheap honey. Or, at least that was what we were told. I think it was a Peace Corps set-up, but I'll forgive them for now, at least until I can prove it was a set-up. So I, with some other people, set-off down the hill in search of some honey. The others were just going for a walk, but I was going for the whole she-bang. The others turned back as we neared the honey place and I set up the hill on my own. At the time, I thought I must have been walking into the most backwoods yard in the world, compared to most places in the States, but as I have learned over the past half-a-year, most places outside of cities kind of have that feel here. This feeling was only stronger after I met the "saleswoman," who had, if Ai'm lyin, Ai'm dyin', one tooth in her mouth, and that one tooth was gold.
At the bottom of the hill, according to one volunteer who speaks Russian really well, there was a sign that said honey. I have learned since then that he was right, so Ryan, as I have told you already, I must apologize for my disbelief and ignorance. You were absolutely right. The sign said honey, and I know I was pronouncing it correct, but for some unknown reason, I could not communicate that I wanted honey to this woman. I told her honey, I told her the price, I told her flowers and bees and inscribed on the ground, all to no avail. She did not understand any of it. No a smart (i.e. not stubborn) person would have given up after a few minutes. But I was determined to have honey to take to my first host family.
After about 15 minutes, she appeared to have an epiphany. At this point, I must say that for her to have an epiphany was a lot like the sun coming out like a light being turned on after a thirty year period of pitch black night…no stars, no moon, no nothing. She turned and walked back into a little shed and brought out a bottle of what looked like milk tome. So I shook my head. No, that's not it. I want honey. (Ru. pron. btw Meod). She shook the bottle and said, I think, this is honey. No, it's not. And at this, she had another epiphany. Aha! She exclaimed, ran back to the barn, and came back with another bottle, this one bigger and the same white milk like stuff.
At this point I was so frustrated by my inabilities that I gave up. I mean, it was 20 minutes later and still no honey, so what the heck, I'll buy what she has in her hands. How much?..250 tenge for 1.5 liters…Sold to the idiot from America. I walked away completely frustrated with the bottle of milk.
After getting out of her line of sight, I figured I would open the bottle and find out what exactly it was that I had just bought for maybe $2. I opened the bottle and almost puked my guts out right there.
If anyone ever comes to Kazakhstan, let me be your warning. If anyone ever, EVER, offers you a drink of kumiz, DO NOT ACCEPT IT!!! Here, kumiz is a delicacy. But I am telling you now, I have never put anything so vile down my throat. I have been in a lot of strange places, including sewers (from working in utilities work) and I have never even smelled anything this vile. Kumiz is fermented mare's milk. Now for me, anything fermented is not drinkable, in any conditions, with the exception of near death, in the middle of the largest desert, when the buzzards are clipping at your heels. For those of you not up on farm lingo, a mare is a horse. They milk the horse and let the milk go sour and you get BLECH!!!!
Anyway, that was my real introduction to Kazakhstan culture. It was a winner, let me tell you. Since then, I have been offered kumiz about a dozen times at least, my students have to read about it in their terrible text books, and every time I hear it said, I fell like losing lunch on my shoes. Let me be the mistake you learn from if you come here. Don't drink Kumiz. (never ever, ever, ever again!)
Take care out there.
Posted at 12/9/2004 8:01:54 pm by TimsPCjournal
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Wednesday, December 08, 2004
Weekend 2 with you guess who
Weekend two with you guess who…
So, there I was, walking along last weekend, minding my own business (this time clever enough to have my coat on) when I get stopped, again, by the ever so elegant and honest police in this country called Kazakhstan.
Since I have been here, I have been stopped twice by the police, both times in the last two weeks. Now, even I am not stupid enough to believe that the first time was a fluke, funny, yes, but at least they had a reason to stop me. This time, no stumbling, no obnoxious behavior (if you can believe that J ), and I had my coat on. These two policemen had absolutely, positively no reason to even consider stopping me, with the possible exception that maybe, perhaps, on the off chance that I was carrying a "bomb" in my backpack.
So the usual barrage of questions followed.
Who are you? Where are you living? Why are you in our country? Are the girls in Kazakhstan beautiful? (I am still unsure about how this pertains to anything police like, but I hear from most of the male volunteers that this is a standard question.) Where are you staying the city? Why are you in the city? Where are you going? Where are you coming from? What is in your backpack? Do you have you documents?
My answers…I am Tim Dickison. I am a volunteer. I am teaching school in a small village. Yes of course I am going to tell you that the girls are beautiful, whether they are or not, I don't feel like pissing you off. (It's not like I have to lie, they are beautiful, but that is besides the point.) I am staying at a friend's apartment (stating the nearest apartment). I am going to that friend's apartment. I am coming from Kazakhtelecom (where I was doing Internet business, but I didn't tell them that. That would mean that I had money.) I have books and a camera. Of course, I have my documents.
And then the real reason for why they stopped me came out. Maybe, with the difference in cultures, these police don't understand that a volunteer doesn't make a whole lot of money, but then again, I am from America. I must be rich. What was the question? Where is your money? What exactly my money has to do with any police business in city of Uralsk is beyond me…Oh wait, no, it's not. I know why they ask that. They think 1) I am rich and 2) that my spine is weak enough that if I have money, I will just hand it over to them. For those of you who know me…That's right…I had 20,000 tenge in my pocket, which right now amounts to all of $150, a real fortune let me tell you. I had a host family payment to make, and shopping to do.
Did they honestly think that if they kept asking where my money was that I would just give them all that I had? Apparently, because they must have asked me at least 20 times. Where is your money? Honestly, I have no money. I am a volunteer. I don't get paid. I have no money.
For fifteen minutes I had to tell them this. I know they understood. I could understand their little laughs and snickers and their Kazakh. Haha, he's an American and he says he doesn't have money…what a lie! Where is your money?
Oh where is the ability and freedom to tell a crooked cop to "piss off, I'm not giving you a bloody red tenge!" It doesn't exist here for me. Oh, but wouldn't it be nice to be able…Oh wait a minute. Here comes his superior officer. What is the problem? His documents check out, let him alone. To which the crooked cops immediately responded, as the other officers left, Shuttka Shuttke…Joke, Joke. I know what a joke is. I'm sorry, your "joke" isn't funny.
Corruption exists in the world…Oh yes it does. Piece out my hommies…J ;) Take care.
Ps for those of you worried about me, don't. I really am doing well, and will eventually answer your emails. I promise.
Posted at 12/8/2004 8:17:26 pm by TimsPCjournal
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Friday, December 03, 2004
Weekend with the Police Part 2
Part 2 The ending They point me to a store and tell me to go buy my water. Ok. I can handle that. There is a store in the middle of a mud slop. The only regret I will have is not having my camera. Now, you may be thinking why did I leave you hanging like that only to leave this little tag as the ender to the story. Never, there is still more… Now we have had rain and snow, on and off pretty consistently for the past, oh, I don't know, three months. So everything is pretty much wet. The only parts that aren't mud, are the parts that have frozen from the snow, ice, and cold weather we have had following the rain. Keep this in mind too. I am ordered back into the backseat of the Lada, where Drunk man, who doesn't have his documents, sits on one side, Officer #2 in the middle and me on the other side. Officer # 2 is not a small man, by any stretch of the imagination. He was probably about 6'3" and weighed in around 240. Needless to say from my early descriptions of Lada's, and all things Lada like in this country, there isn't really a whole lot of room for many people in the back seats of a Lada, especially when they are the size of this officer and me. But, we fit and drive down the alley. I realize that the alley is a storage container type area, similar to those in the States, only with more mud. We get through the second third of the alley only to discover that some fool has parked his car in the middle of the alley. Decision time: What do you do? There is a car on one side, EVERYTHING is mud, a metal pole on the other side. Do you A) try to find the driver? B) Try to drive around somewhere else? Or C) Try to squeeze through, risking hitting the car, the pole and getting stuck? Survey says… We cops, first A, then C. Enter officer # 3. This young fellow must have been on some kind of ride along program because he couldn't have been more than 16 or 17 years old. But he is sent to first try and find the driver of the car. As he searches, the BMIL (Big Man in Lada) tries to make the loudspeaker work, to no avail. Finally he gives up, well they both give up, and the decision is reached to drive through the slop and in between the two obstacles and try to make it through. Now I will give them all A's for effort. There was plenty of room to fit, had it not been for the mud. First try is a no go, and the driver almost gets stuck on the first try. He backed up and gave it a second go. This time, he is only making the mudpit sloppier, as the driver comes running up to move the car. The car is moved, but the damage is done. The Lada is buried on one side, almost to the floorboards, in mud. Once again I am ordered out of the car. I don't know why, but I figured since I was there, I might as well help push. Between the driver, the young officer and half the help of the other officer (he really was working harder to keep the drunk gentleman in the Lada, then he was at pushing) we get the Lada unstuck, and back on the road to the Soho club. Upon arrival, the senior officer steps from the car, and escorts me to the front door, where the owner happens to be standing. Police Officer: "Kazakh Male greeting" Asaloumahalakum (pron). Owner: Owalekumassalaum. PO: Is he with his friends inside? O: Yes there are American's inside. PO: (to me) you may go. I walk inside the door, to discover the hatcheck lady wants to refuse to let me take my hard earned water into the building. HCL: You cannot take that. Me: Yes, I must. HCL: It is not allowed. PO: (Who has followed me in the door) He shall pass without problems (rough translation). So I walk in with my water, and sit down to the ice cream that I had ordered before leaving, which had taken so to be delivered that it had just arrived before I did. Commentary from the Gallery… Angela: (Nice PCV) Wow, it sure took a long time to get that water. Me: Boy do I have a story for you all…If you want, you can go back to the top and read it all again… So the moral of the story is: You can be plastered out of you mind in Uralsk, Kazakhstan, drinking from open bottles in the middle of the street, as long as you have 1) identification and 2) a coat. Maybe the moral should be Drink Beer, Vodka, or Mineral water. If you are thirsty, and don't want any of these options, deal with it.
Posted at 12/3/2004 10:07:37 pm by TimsPCjournal
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