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Thursday, December 09, 2004
First time to speak Kazakh
This is a story that I was reminded of, not that long ago, by one of the other volunteers in the group that I am in. For those who read this story and know me, and my stubbornness, some of this will, I am sure, come as a shock.
This happened in the first three days that we were in country. At this point, I had all of maybe four hours of language training, and could just barely…no…I take that back. I couldn't even say, "Hello. My name is Tim." Anyone who has tried to learn this language and knows me will understand this. But I was game for an adventure, and set off to buy some honey.
We were staying at what is called a sanatorium, which is a little bit like a spa center type place, without all the frills. We were up in the mountains not far from Almaty. When we arrived in country, it was dark. The stars were amazingly bright, but there was absolutely no moon. So no one really knew where we were at, and at the time on the bus, tired, jet lagged, hungry, and feeling like dirty garbage after a day or thirty of flying…(I don't know how long the flight was, I lost all track of time.)…(And that feeling of dirty garbage is pretty much a weekly thing now.)…No one really knew where we were. You would think this would have been enough of an adventure for me, but no, I wanted honey, and come hell or high water, I was going to get some, language barrier or not.
At the bottom of one of the mountains was a place where there was supposed to be really good, really cheap honey. Or, at least that was what we were told. I think it was a Peace Corps set-up, but I'll forgive them for now, at least until I can prove it was a set-up. So I, with some other people, set-off down the hill in search of some honey. The others were just going for a walk, but I was going for the whole she-bang. The others turned back as we neared the honey place and I set up the hill on my own. At the time, I thought I must have been walking into the most backwoods yard in the world, compared to most places in the States, but as I have learned over the past half-a-year, most places outside of cities kind of have that feel here. This feeling was only stronger after I met the "saleswoman," who had, if Ai'm lyin, Ai'm dyin', one tooth in her mouth, and that one tooth was gold.
At the bottom of the hill, according to one volunteer who speaks Russian really well, there was a sign that said honey. I have learned since then that he was right, so Ryan, as I have told you already, I must apologize for my disbelief and ignorance. You were absolutely right. The sign said honey, and I know I was pronouncing it correct, but for some unknown reason, I could not communicate that I wanted honey to this woman. I told her honey, I told her the price, I told her flowers and bees and inscribed on the ground, all to no avail. She did not understand any of it. No a smart (i.e. not stubborn) person would have given up after a few minutes. But I was determined to have honey to take to my first host family.
After about 15 minutes, she appeared to have an epiphany. At this point, I must say that for her to have an epiphany was a lot like the sun coming out like a light being turned on after a thirty year period of pitch black night…no stars, no moon, no nothing. She turned and walked back into a little shed and brought out a bottle of what looked like milk tome. So I shook my head. No, that's not it. I want honey. (Ru. pron. btw Meod). She shook the bottle and said, I think, this is honey. No, it's not. And at this, she had another epiphany. Aha! She exclaimed, ran back to the barn, and came back with another bottle, this one bigger and the same white milk like stuff.
At this point I was so frustrated by my inabilities that I gave up. I mean, it was 20 minutes later and still no honey, so what the heck, I'll buy what she has in her hands. How much?..250 tenge for 1.5 liters…Sold to the idiot from America. I walked away completely frustrated with the bottle of milk.
After getting out of her line of sight, I figured I would open the bottle and find out what exactly it was that I had just bought for maybe $2. I opened the bottle and almost puked my guts out right there.
If anyone ever comes to Kazakhstan, let me be your warning. If anyone ever, EVER, offers you a drink of kumiz, DO NOT ACCEPT IT!!! Here, kumiz is a delicacy. But I am telling you now, I have never put anything so vile down my throat. I have been in a lot of strange places, including sewers (from working in utilities work) and I have never even smelled anything this vile. Kumiz is fermented mare's milk. Now for me, anything fermented is not drinkable, in any conditions, with the exception of near death, in the middle of the largest desert, when the buzzards are clipping at your heels. For those of you not up on farm lingo, a mare is a horse. They milk the horse and let the milk go sour and you get BLECH!!!!
Anyway, that was my real introduction to Kazakhstan culture. It was a winner, let me tell you. Since then, I have been offered kumiz about a dozen times at least, my students have to read about it in their terrible text books, and every time I hear it said, I fell like losing lunch on my shoes. Let me be the mistake you learn from if you come here. Don't drink Kumiz. (never ever, ever, ever again!)
Take care out there.
Posted at 12/9/2004 8:01:54 pm by TimsPCjournal
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Wednesday, December 08, 2004
Weekend 2 with you guess who
Weekend two with you guess who…
So, there I was, walking along last weekend, minding my own business (this time clever enough to have my coat on) when I get stopped, again, by the ever so elegant and honest police in this country called Kazakhstan.
Since I have been here, I have been stopped twice by the police, both times in the last two weeks. Now, even I am not stupid enough to believe that the first time was a fluke, funny, yes, but at least they had a reason to stop me. This time, no stumbling, no obnoxious behavior (if you can believe that J ), and I had my coat on. These two policemen had absolutely, positively no reason to even consider stopping me, with the possible exception that maybe, perhaps, on the off chance that I was carrying a "bomb" in my backpack.
So the usual barrage of questions followed.
Who are you? Where are you living? Why are you in our country? Are the girls in Kazakhstan beautiful? (I am still unsure about how this pertains to anything police like, but I hear from most of the male volunteers that this is a standard question.) Where are you staying the city? Why are you in the city? Where are you going? Where are you coming from? What is in your backpack? Do you have you documents?
My answers…I am Tim Dickison. I am a volunteer. I am teaching school in a small village. Yes of course I am going to tell you that the girls are beautiful, whether they are or not, I don't feel like pissing you off. (It's not like I have to lie, they are beautiful, but that is besides the point.) I am staying at a friend's apartment (stating the nearest apartment). I am going to that friend's apartment. I am coming from Kazakhtelecom (where I was doing Internet business, but I didn't tell them that. That would mean that I had money.) I have books and a camera. Of course, I have my documents.
And then the real reason for why they stopped me came out. Maybe, with the difference in cultures, these police don't understand that a volunteer doesn't make a whole lot of money, but then again, I am from America. I must be rich. What was the question? Where is your money? What exactly my money has to do with any police business in city of Uralsk is beyond me…Oh wait, no, it's not. I know why they ask that. They think 1) I am rich and 2) that my spine is weak enough that if I have money, I will just hand it over to them. For those of you who know me…That's right…I had 20,000 tenge in my pocket, which right now amounts to all of $150, a real fortune let me tell you. I had a host family payment to make, and shopping to do.
Did they honestly think that if they kept asking where my money was that I would just give them all that I had? Apparently, because they must have asked me at least 20 times. Where is your money? Honestly, I have no money. I am a volunteer. I don't get paid. I have no money.
For fifteen minutes I had to tell them this. I know they understood. I could understand their little laughs and snickers and their Kazakh. Haha, he's an American and he says he doesn't have money…what a lie! Where is your money?
Oh where is the ability and freedom to tell a crooked cop to "piss off, I'm not giving you a bloody red tenge!" It doesn't exist here for me. Oh, but wouldn't it be nice to be able…Oh wait a minute. Here comes his superior officer. What is the problem? His documents check out, let him alone. To which the crooked cops immediately responded, as the other officers left, Shuttka Shuttke…Joke, Joke. I know what a joke is. I'm sorry, your "joke" isn't funny.
Corruption exists in the world…Oh yes it does. Piece out my hommies…J ;) Take care.
Ps for those of you worried about me, don't. I really am doing well, and will eventually answer your emails. I promise.
Posted at 12/8/2004 8:17:26 pm by TimsPCjournal
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Friday, December 03, 2004
Weekend with the Police Part 2
Part 2 The ending They point me to a store and tell me to go buy my water. Ok. I can handle that. There is a store in the middle of a mud slop. The only regret I will have is not having my camera. Now, you may be thinking why did I leave you hanging like that only to leave this little tag as the ender to the story. Never, there is still more… Now we have had rain and snow, on and off pretty consistently for the past, oh, I don't know, three months. So everything is pretty much wet. The only parts that aren't mud, are the parts that have frozen from the snow, ice, and cold weather we have had following the rain. Keep this in mind too. I am ordered back into the backseat of the Lada, where Drunk man, who doesn't have his documents, sits on one side, Officer #2 in the middle and me on the other side. Officer # 2 is not a small man, by any stretch of the imagination. He was probably about 6'3" and weighed in around 240. Needless to say from my early descriptions of Lada's, and all things Lada like in this country, there isn't really a whole lot of room for many people in the back seats of a Lada, especially when they are the size of this officer and me. But, we fit and drive down the alley. I realize that the alley is a storage container type area, similar to those in the States, only with more mud. We get through the second third of the alley only to discover that some fool has parked his car in the middle of the alley. Decision time: What do you do? There is a car on one side, EVERYTHING is mud, a metal pole on the other side. Do you A) try to find the driver? B) Try to drive around somewhere else? Or C) Try to squeeze through, risking hitting the car, the pole and getting stuck? Survey says… We cops, first A, then C. Enter officer # 3. This young fellow must have been on some kind of ride along program because he couldn't have been more than 16 or 17 years old. But he is sent to first try and find the driver of the car. As he searches, the BMIL (Big Man in Lada) tries to make the loudspeaker work, to no avail. Finally he gives up, well they both give up, and the decision is reached to drive through the slop and in between the two obstacles and try to make it through. Now I will give them all A's for effort. There was plenty of room to fit, had it not been for the mud. First try is a no go, and the driver almost gets stuck on the first try. He backed up and gave it a second go. This time, he is only making the mudpit sloppier, as the driver comes running up to move the car. The car is moved, but the damage is done. The Lada is buried on one side, almost to the floorboards, in mud. Once again I am ordered out of the car. I don't know why, but I figured since I was there, I might as well help push. Between the driver, the young officer and half the help of the other officer (he really was working harder to keep the drunk gentleman in the Lada, then he was at pushing) we get the Lada unstuck, and back on the road to the Soho club. Upon arrival, the senior officer steps from the car, and escorts me to the front door, where the owner happens to be standing. Police Officer: "Kazakh Male greeting" Asaloumahalakum (pron). Owner: Owalekumassalaum. PO: Is he with his friends inside? O: Yes there are American's inside. PO: (to me) you may go. I walk inside the door, to discover the hatcheck lady wants to refuse to let me take my hard earned water into the building. HCL: You cannot take that. Me: Yes, I must. HCL: It is not allowed. PO: (Who has followed me in the door) He shall pass without problems (rough translation). So I walk in with my water, and sit down to the ice cream that I had ordered before leaving, which had taken so to be delivered that it had just arrived before I did. Commentary from the Gallery… Angela: (Nice PCV) Wow, it sure took a long time to get that water. Me: Boy do I have a story for you all…If you want, you can go back to the top and read it all again… So the moral of the story is: You can be plastered out of you mind in Uralsk, Kazakhstan, drinking from open bottles in the middle of the street, as long as you have 1) identification and 2) a coat. Maybe the moral should be Drink Beer, Vodka, or Mineral water. If you are thirsty, and don't want any of these options, deal with it.
Posted at 12/3/2004 10:07:37 pm by TimsPCjournal
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Wednesday, December 01, 2004
A weekend with the police, part one
You will all love this one, sorry about the length.
Last weekend was Thanksgiving, and being an American Holiday and not a Kazakh Holiday, most of us had to work. In and of itself, it wasn't all that bad. There were some twenty people that came in for our little feast. (Soon I will have pictures up displaying it…Maybe.) Before all of the feast happened, there was a little celebration to commemorate the ending of a big project that some of the NGO volunteers put together. It was nothing big, it was really just a bunch of people going out and having fun.
The real fun for me began after our arrival at the fourth bar / club that we went to, only to discover that they, like all of the other places, don't sell water without gas (regular water instead of mineral water). This has been a reoccurring theme in my PC service. You would think that I would just learn to drink that other crap.
Finding myself thirsty, not in the mood for mineral water, beer, or vodka, which appears to be the only drinks one can find in this country, I went for a walk into the gathering evening to find a bottle of water. Now, winter has started in this country, soon I will add an entry about that too, and it was a bit on the cold side for almost everyone, save me. So when I left the club / bar, I left my with the coat check person, knowing that I had everything I needed for my little foray into the city…passport, kartoucka, and money. Little did I know the rules in Kazakhstan.
Almost every street in Uralsk has a store that stays open late into the night, and if you can't get into it, you can at least ask for what you want through a small window, they bring it to you, you pay, and go on your merry way. Every street save the one I was walking down. I walked a full city block without finding a single open store. Arriving at the corner of Euvrasia and Doestuck (pron, not word, the word means friendship), and still being in search of water, I decided that the next logical step to take would be to turn down Doestuck and continue my search for water. Someone else had a different plan.
As I was taking the corner, I heard a vehicle pull up behind me and give a little toot on the horn. Beings that I was the only soul for a few hundred feet, I figured it was for me, and it was. I turned around to discover that there was the Kazakhstan equivalent of a police cruiser and they wanted to "have a talk with me, would you please get in the car?" Being the kind and cooperating soul that I am, I gladly complied to their request. They were three police officers in a Lada Niva "Truck," the Kazakhstan equivalent of an SUV. The following conversation happened in Kazakh, and I will spare you the time and trouble of translating it.
Them: What are you doing?
Me: I am looking for a store.
T: Who are you?
M: My name is ********.
T: Who?
M: ***********.
T: Where are you from?
M: America, I live in the state of Illinois.
T: Are you cold?
M: No, I like cold weather.
T: Where are you coming from?
M: I am coming from Soho (the name of the club).
T: Why are you at Soho?
M: I am there with my friends.
T: Have you been drinking?
M: No, I do not drink.
Now, at this point, I will have to add a special detail about Kazakh culture. In this country it is legal to walk about the streets, at pretty much any age, drinking beer and or vodka from open and uncovered bottles, without any sort of fear of police interference, as long as you have identification.. This will come into play later. Now back to the conversation. (Note: there are no mistakes in their following sentences, as they have now switched to English, very poor English.)
T: Have you been drinking?
M: No. (I lay down my story that I had friends die from drunk and reckless driving and that I don't drink because of this. It is not entirely true, but it makes people leave me alone about the issue. And it works with them also.)
T: Where is you coat?
M: It is at Soho.
T: Where is your coat? It is cold.
M: It is at Soho. I am not cold.
T: Where is your coat?
M: Hmmm. I think it is at Soho, and I like the cold weather.
T: You should have a coat on. You will get sick.
M: Ok.
T: Who your father? (In English.)
M: Inner Dialogue: What does my father have to do with this? Response: His name is Michael.
T: Who is father? (Again, In English.)
M: My father is *********.
T: Who is father?
M: I don't understand why you are asking about my father.
T: (Realize they don't know what they are trying to ask in English and revert back to Kazakh) Where are you from?
M: I am from Illinois, in America.
T: You are American?
M: Yes.
T: Why are you in Kazakhstan?
M: I am teaching English at the Akzhaik Secondary school.
T: Where are you living?
M: Akzhaik.
T: Where are you staying?
M: (ID: Why do I have to repeat myself… I know they understand me, every time I say something they repeat it.) I am living in Akzhaik.
T: Where are you living in Uralsk?
M: I don't live in Uralsk. I live in Akzhaik.
T: Why are you in Uralsk?
M: I am with my friends.
T: Where are your friends?
M: They are at Soho.
T: Where are you going?
M: I am going to find a store that sells water without gas. I am thirsty.
T: Why do you need water?
M: I am thirsty.
T: Do they sell water at Soho?
M: Yes, water with gas. I need water without gas.
T: Do you have you documents?
M: Of course. Here they are.
T: (All of them examine my documents.) Ahh. You are from America. What is your name?
M: (ID Dear God are you serious?) My name is Tim.
T: Sim?
M: No, T, T, T, Tim. (No one can understand me when I say Tim.)
T: Ahh. You will come with us.
M: (ID: Do I have a choice?) Ok.
At this point they turn down Doestuck and start heading in the general direction of the police station. My reaction: Oh great. I am going to get arrested in Kazkahstan for not wearing a coat…Are you serious? But before going far, they turn onto another street. We travel about half a block and then turn in the general direction of the club. At first, I thought, "They are taking me to the club, waterless. Oh well." Then I realized that the street isn't a street.
It is an alley, and the stories of the police forcing people, especially foreigners, to pay bribes to be left alone, start running through my head. As I look ahead, there are no lights, no people, and no, well, no nothing. About half way into the jungle, the driver, the senior officer, pulls the Lada up, and shuts it off. "Oh God, I am dead. They are going to pull me out and beat me up for all the 300 tenge I have on me. (That is less than $3.) The driver then opens the door to have a conversation with a man who is stumbling, and not from the ice and mud, down the alley. This is an easy feat to manage sober in any place that isn't a main sidewalk in Uralsk, but this fellow was a little bit on the intoxicated side. The driver orders the other two to get out and they do.
The next thing I hear is the gentleman being placed ever so gently against the back of the Lada (sarcasm). He hit hard enough to shake the whole car. Then I am ordered out of the car. Ok, I am next. I get myself ready, walk around the back of the car, and…
What a hanger…
Posted at 12/1/2004 7:08:34 pm by TimsPCjournal
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I'm not sure where I left off concerning the language camp, but I think I at least finished telling about the train ride.
The language camp itself involved a lot of class time, about six hours a day. The teacher we had was the same one we all had from our days in training, and she is an amazing teacher. Her name is Saltanat, which is a common name in this country, and I used to know the translation, but I have forgotten and I don't have my Kazakh English dictionary with me at this point. But she is an incredible teacher.
When we arrived, we were under the impression (a trick played by the organizer Jon) that we were to have a different teacher, which was a disappointment to myself (and I am sure to all of the other volunteers at the camp) because I was looking forward to having Saltanat again as a teacher. As it turned out, we had Saltanat, which worked out wonderfully. She put together all of the lessons that we had after arriving because she didn't know until then what kind of lessons we were in need of or wanting. (She is working for the US Embassy in Almaty right now teaching Kazakh to a bunch of diplomats.)
The language camp was a welcome change from the monotony of classes. It was also nice to get to see the people that I had spent three months of six-hours-a-day-six-days-a-week minimum in class or training. We cooked some great American meals, and went out to some different restaurants, which was also a welcome change. I should be careful using we though. I know I didn't do a whole lot of cooking myself. I can't remember some of what we had, but we had an awesome salad (recipe provided from Jon), White Bean Chili (or something along those lines), some apple and pear crisp, grilled cheese, as well as some other great food. We also went out to eat a really great Korean Restaurant.
It was an interesting trip that I will have to repeat as soon as I can. The city itself isn't that impressive. It was a little on the dry side, which was a welcome relief to Susan and I, who were coming from Uralsk and three or four weeks of rain. The buildings there are small and less decorated than those here in Uralsk. I did see some interesting statues that I wanted pictures of, but, failing to have my camera with me, I did not get them. On the other hand, I was able to find a battery for my camera at the first store that I looked at, so now I don't need one, for the time being.
The train ride home was interesting also. Susan and I bought our tickets together and decided to ride in the coupe instead of Platts car. Coupes are cars that are divided into four-bunk rooms. Each room has four bunks, duh, and room for a lot of luggage, which was important for the car that I was in as well as Susan. We were worried about our arrangements, because we did not have an assigned room. The worry was that we would end up in a cabin with some drunk guys and get harassed the whole trip home, which had happened to some of the other volunteers on the trip to the camp.
Our worries were for naught as both of us ended in cars with women and children, who, I think, were traveling together. The car I was in had three women and a little girl, who ended up throwing up her dinner after taking some kind of pill which I think reacted with the pill she took. These ladies had so many bags, it could hardly be considered funny. The entire area of baggage was full of their bags and even one of the bunks that was being slept in had some large bags on it. As a result, I spent my sleep time shared with my bag, which, considering that the bunks are too small for me to begin with, made for some uncomfortable sleep. All in all the rest of the trip was uneventful, with one exception.
I talked a little bit with the ladies in the cabin, and found out that one of them was related to someone I know. She turned out to be the sister of one of the gym teachers at the school where I am teaching. She then proceeded to look through the pictures I had with me and we had a decent conversation, which ended with her offering me her phone numbers and address. I'm still not sure why.
All in all it was a pretty good trip. It was a chance to refresh myself from the worries of having to teach class. It was nice to eat American style food, and be able to carry on conversations without having to dummy it down or watch what I say for fear that something will be taken the wrong way.
Speaking of which, we also got to watch and have a decent discussion on Michael Moore's "Fahrenheit 9/11". Even though I don't like the guy or his style, he makes some pretty poignant statements about the quality of the administration that is playing with the future of America. It's too bad more people didn't take his message to heart.
I hope y'all are doing well out there. Remember that if you don't get emails from me when you write me, it's not because I don't want to write back, but my time is precious and needed in the classroom, and the internet is not cheap nor reliable.
Take care.
Posted at 12/1/2004 7:04:06 pm by TimsPCjournal
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Tuesday, November 23, 2004
So, I haven't thrown anything up here in a while, and I guess by now, someone out there is about to write an email asking why. To that I say…Here. Have an entry. Hmm. What should I write about though? I guess I never told anyone about the trip to Kyzalorda for the language camp. I think I'll say a few words about that.
To start off the story, I should begin at the beginning. The rules for the Peace Corps state that a volunteer is not allowed to leave site in the first six months, or the last three months of his or her service. This is to integrate the volunteer into the community in which he/she is supposed to live for the next two years and to make sure the volunteer finishes the projects that they started. We were told prior to swearing in that the only way we were allowed to leave site during the first months was to put together a language camp. So being the rebels that we all are, and wanting to travel early and often, the group that learned Kazakh in training immediately began planning our escape from the sentence which was imposed on us.
We knew that we wanted to do the camp, and with the knowledge of our sites and a map of Kazkahstan, we began planning, before we even left training, where we could best hold the camp. The best location was pretty close to central Kazakhstan in a city called Kyzalorda. Although it doesn't compare to Uralsk, it is a pretty nice city and it really was the best place for us to hold the camp. The longest train ride was for Ryan, who ended up on a 40-hour train ride from Kokshetau to Kyzalorda, followed by Susan and myself from Uralsk on a 29 hour train ride. The others in our group all were less than eight hours from the campsite.
The train ride from Uralsk began, in reality, with a Election Day party at Terry's apartment in Uralsk. Terry is a Kaz 14 (NGO Worker) who just got an apartment with the help of his NGO that includes cable (which also includes CNN World). So we all watched tragically, sorry Dad, as Bush won too many States, and, unfortunately, as Kerry conceded, in my opinion, prematurely.
((Political opinion time: I couldn't vote for a person who cut the budget to one of the only US organizations whose goals are to create a better image of the US, help people in need, and create a better, peaceful world, namely the Peace Corps, and then take that money, start a personal vendetta war (I know there were certain valid reasons to invade Iraq, and he should have used those and found more valid reasons than the lies he sold the American Public) in which a thousand + American soldiers have died, and thousands more are being sent home dying and limbless, all for oil ;) for a world would be better off looking for alternative fuel sources before we destroy the only Earth there is. Wow, that is one long run-on sentence!))
Anyway, back to my story… The train that Susan and I took left at about 2:00 in the morning, so we stayed up rather than sleeping over and missing it. Getting on the train was a bit like going through a meat grinder, I am imagining of course what that would really feel like, and I am pretty sure that would be a pretty accurate description. We pushed and plowed our way through about forty people who were bound and determined to do nothing but get in our way and shout obscenities to the world. (Actually it was all in Russian, so I am not sure what they were yelling, but it was loud and unfriendly.) The trains in Kazakhstan arrive and leave, miraculously, on time from just about every stop. It may be the only form of cheap transportation to do so here in Kazakhstan.
We found our bunks and surprisingly didn't even have to kick anyone out of them. The normal way to travel is to show up at the train station as the train does, and bribe the conductor for a seat. Once the conductor has his bribe, regardless of what your ticket says the seat is no longer yours. One of the other volunteers who came to the camp discovered this the hard way, as her bed was yanked out from underneath her. I'm not really sure of all of the details of that story, so I won't add more than that.
Susan and I discovered that were in the midst of a group of women, mostly, who were making a pilgrimage to Tashkent, which is one of the Muslim Holy areas in Kazakhstan. The lady whom Susan spoke to for several hours (as she had to share her bottom as a seat, which is a whole other story), said she was going to ask for a son. She has two daughters, but she and her husband have been trying to have a son with no avail. They were a friendly and well-spoken group of women, right up until the end. When we got "to" Kyzalorda, one of them woke me up under the pretense of having arrived, and I rolled out of my bunk to discover about five minutes later, after she had crawled into my bunk, that we were still about an hour out of Kyzalorda. So I ended up sitting the rest of the trip on Susan's bunk.
We arrived early in the morning, only to discover that some idiot had put the wrong arrival date on the email that he sent out. I don't know who that idiot is, but he sure writes a long weblogs. Anyway, the situation was soon sorted out and our welcoming committee came to meet us, and take us to the apartment of his host family (who in reality was younger than he is).
I think I'll write the rest of the story in another entry…I still have half the story to write.
So Peace to you all, and God forbid Bush is in charge of finding that peace.
Posted at 11/23/2004 6:40:08 pm by TimsPCjournal
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Tuesday, November 09, 2004
So here I find myself, sitting in a different city after three days of seriously intense language camp, typingaweblog. I am now, and for the past four days, in Kyzalorda, where myKazakh Language group held a reunion of sorts and a language camp.
The train ride to this city took about 29 hours at the cost of maybe $20 -25. not that bad of a trip in reality. There is more to the trip that I will include in this weblog, due to cost and time, including having the conductor ask me, in broken English, Are you Apache?
Anyway, life is going well. I am flooded with new things to practice so that I can get along in this country without too much trouble. Thats all for now. I hope you are all right. Have fun out there.
Posted at 11/9/2004 1:07:43 pm by TimsPCjournal
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Saturday, October 23, 2004
This is the copy of an email that I have sent out. Some of you are on my email list, but some are not. I hope you don't mind me thorwing up this instead of a weblog.
Tim
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As I promised some people, I have finally managed to get all of my photos online and in a sharing order. Some of you may not want to look at all of them, there are quite a few, so I broke them up into albums and labeled them accordingly. If you want to save one of the pictures, or use any of them, please do me the favor of giving me credit for it or them. I have more pictures, another three rolls, and as soon as I can find a place that puts them onto CD's as well as develops with good quality, I will get them online.
I hope that all of you are doing well out there and that life is treating you well. I also hope that you enjoy the pictures. I labeled them fairly clearly, but if you have any questions about any of them send me an email with the picture name listed and I will answer you as to who, when, what, where, and why the picture was taken.
The other part of this email is to let people know that I have a weblog. Many of you know about it, or at least got an email, but I received emails from some people who said they lost the address for it. It is found at www.timsjournal.blogdrive.com. There is a place to sign up to receive a notice when I update it, if you are into following what I am doing. Everyone is welcome to sign up.
Another web site that I know of from a Kazakhstan volunteer is Ryan Giodano's, at www.thegio.net. His site has a link to my weblog, to another weblog of a Kazakhstan Volunteer, an Africa Volunteer, and many more pictures than I have. It also has the "sites" that were created by three of the students that we worked with in Pre-Service Training.
Those who have written actual letters to me, I swear I am in the process of writing you back. I am horrible at corresponding. :(
Take care and enjoy.
Tim in a Stan - Kazakhstan 15 Peace Corps Volunteer, TOEFL
ps. If you do not want to receive emails like this, please let me know and I will take you off of the list.
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Illinois: March April 2004
New York: May 2004
Washington DC: June 2004
Kazakhstan Pre Service Training: June 2004
Kazakhstan: July 2004
Kazakhstan PST August 2004
Posted at 10/23/2004 8:08:43 pm by TimsPCjournal
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Friday, October 15, 2004
What is your toilet water?
Ok, as I was in the computer lab (or what passes for one here), I was asked the following question: "Tim, what is your toilet water?" Now I can say that had it been in Kazakh, I might have made a mistake in the translating of the phrase, but it wasn't. The lady who asked it speaks English fairly well. I don't know who she is, or whether or not she is a teacher here at the school, but she is here quite often. I was a little knocked off my perch with this remark for two reasons.
Reason 1) There are no toilets here in Akzhaik (or at least that I am aware of). Now, I am sure that if they were a toilet in this village, the good people of the village would be more than excited in showing it off to the American. They have an affinity for showing off anything new, including but not limited to my host dad's new car alarm, which he also showed off to the neighborhood on more than one occasion. I thought I was going crazy at first. I was in my closet, err, I mean room, when I heard the alarm going off. There are other "new things," like the dual satellites and the single overhead projector (which was so novel to this area of Kazakhstan that my school made a special point in hauling it all the way to the main meeting for the schools).
Reason 2) When I finally realized that she was asking about what cologne I had on and not the toilet water, I mean well water, that I bathe with, I wasn't sure how to respond. At first I kind of stammered, "well… uhh… well… uhh…," because in truth (as has been common to my stay here in Kazakhstan), I was wearing "Ode to not Having a Decent Shower" with a little "Ode to not having banya in a week" mixed into the mess. In other words, I smelled bad enough that I could smell myself, which is something I have never liked.
I thought she was making a comment on this fact. As it turns out, she wanted to compliment me on what I was wearing because she thought I smelled nice. Hmm…Must be the mix of smells from the school, the coal smoke pouring out of the smoke stack (which is supposed to, by some miracle, heat the school), someone else's cologne, aided by the fact that she can have no true olfactory glands left after living in this country for all her life that she smelled whatever it was that she thought was nice. It certainly wasn't me.
Anyway, that's about all for now. Take care.
Posted at 10/15/2004 7:58:43 pm by TimsPCjournal
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Here is an attempt to retype the entry about the hike that I took with my 10th form class.
It all started out with the advent of Teacher's day in Kazakhstan. Here in Kazakhstan there is a national day set aside for honoring teachers. It really is a novel idea, maybe one worth following up on in the States. (I know my teachers never received all of the credit that was due to them for things they were put through.) Anyway, I was to be gone on the day that the school was celebrating. There is a National Day, but all schools celebrate in different ways, on different days. As it turned out, I wasn't informed that the party was to happen until two days before, which was two days after I had already made plans to get together with some of the other volunteers.
On the same day that I had made plans to go into Uralsk to meet the other volunteers, my 10th form class asked me to go on a hike with them. I found out in training that the Kazakhstan idea of a hike and the American idea of a hike are two different things, completely different. In America, if someone says hike, one would throw some snacks into a bag, put on some comfortable shoes, and start walking in some sort of pre-planned direction with something of a destination in mind. Right? Right.
Here in Kazakhstan, a hike is a bunch of people riding in a car, marshruka, or bus to a destination where a giant picnic is held, filled with games, food, fishing, or whatever else one can find to do in the area. Having learned the difference in PST, I was prepared. I had bought some food to share, brought my soccer ball, fishing pole and a few other items of interest and necessity. Upon arriving at the school, I learned that transportation for the day was to be an old Lada.
For those of you out there who don't know what a Lada is, here is a quick summation. Think of a car the size of a Dodge Omni, shaped something like a Chrysler LaBaron and you'll be close to getting the idea of a Lada. On a good day, a Lada can seat about 5 people comfortably, (a good day being a new Lada and 5 people that are smaller than I am). As it turns out, there were 18 people who were going on this trip, 16 students, another teacher and myself. The other teacher was brought along because: "The children might be hooligans. They might start trouble. Maybe they might drink or smoke." This is directly from the mouth of both my counterpart and the director of the school. Apparently I don't know how to make "children" obey.)
So, we went out in three shifts. I had been told that we were to be going to the forest and had prepared myself for such a trip. I had asked several times, "Are you sure we are going to the forest?" I had to ask because I have been here for somewhere along a month, and I had yet to see anything (on the fishing trip or on the rabbit-hunting trip) that resembled a forest. The response each time had been, "Yes, we are going to the forest." As we drove along, I learned what they meant by forest.
Apparently in Kazakhstan, a "forest" is a collection of trees somewhat clumped around a pond or a small lake. Now, in America, we simply call this a collection of trees clumped around a pond or a small lake (not even woods), but here, it is indeed a forest. So, we arrive out to the forest, the first group that included myself, the other teacher (who now happens to be tutoring me in Kazakh), and three students (not including the driver, whom I don't think he has his license). We discuss where to set up the picnic, while the driver takes off after more students.
We collect wood, dig a fire pit, and get the whole thing rolling while the last group was on its way out. The entire day was to be taken up with this hike. So I had set aside the day for that, and for the moonsha (Ru: Banya, En: Sauna) that would be prepared by my host family for when I came back. To make a long story short, there was a lot of soccer, some fishing, and a lot of food consumed, borsch and some sort of boiled potato soup, both of which were very good. Both meals were cooked over an open fire in a two and a half gallon steel bucket. The rest of the trip is minor details compared to some of the events.
The students, mostly the boys, began to act as boys do under a small amount of guidance, which means they started wrestling with each other. Now, I am not one to turn down any chance to get in on physical sports, and so I joined in on their little squabble. At first it was just one on one kind of playful fun, but the more they realized that they were less capable than I was, they began to join into a group and try to beat me that way. There are seven boys in this one class and towards the end, it was myself against all of them. Two of the boys are about my size. One is my weight and a little shorter, the other is a little taller, but doesn't weigh as much as I do.
It took them a good minute and a half to wrestle me to the ground and that is only because I decided that it wasn't fair for them to show the girls that one teacher was stronger than the seven of them. They didn't really wrestle me to the ground as much as I took the whole group of them down at the same time. It was very much like a domino effect, one went (me with two of the boys) and the rest followed. It was fun, and I must admit, it was quite a workout, one that I haven't had since the last time that I wrestled with the Peterson Clan.
There was also some fishing done. There was one other student who brought a flip pole and I was fishing with the POS fishing pole that I bought here in Uralsk after arriving. I'd much rather have my tackle box and poles at home, but two years of fishing with what they have here will only make fishing in the States that much more fun and relaxing. The flip pole with the limited range didn't catch as many fish as I did. The boy who brought it caught some fish, but only after an hour of fishing, and one of the girls using the pole. He didn't catch anything until after she did. Appropriate, considering she is one of the better students in the class that she is also the best fisherperson. She caught as many fish as he caught with a quarter of the fishing time as he had.
Between us, we caught about a dozen fish that would be keeping size in the States. All told, we caught about 15 or 16 fish. Some of them were so small, I don't know how they fit the hook and worm into their mouths. Anyway, I was all for throwing them back, because I didn't have any reason to keep them, but the other boy fishing about freaked out when I was getting ready to toss the first one of size back. Apparently, he had plans for them. Out of the fish he ended up keeping, there wasn't enough meat to feed four people, but he kept them anyway. I don't know if they ever ended up making it to his house or not, but that wasn't my problem.
At some point during the day, the weather came into play. When I walked out of the house, it was a nice morning. There were a few clouds in the sky, but the temps were somewhere around the low 60's and the sun was shining. Shortly after we arrived, that all ended. About an hour after the last group was brought out, the clouds came rolling in, and boy did they roll. In about a half an hour the sky went from clear with clouds on the horizon to completely the-sun-can't-break-through clouds. It was really a turn for the worse. Although we never did get rained on, the temps dropped enough to make it almost miserably without constant motion, or standing next to the small fire. It really made for a long day for most of them. I, on the other hand, was comfortable with the weather.
That's about all that I really want to say about it. It didn't really turn out the way that I wanted it to go, or the way that it went the first time, but we can't have it all, can we?
Take care.
Posted at 10/15/2004 7:57:10 pm by TimsPCjournal
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